Someone on Swaylock’s just posed the question – What do you most like about surfing?
This was my answer:
The shock when you first hit the water on a winter’s morning before dawn.
The glint as the sun clears the horizon and you’re still the only person out.
The burst of adrenalin as you paddle into the first wave of the day (and each ensuing wave).
The spray from a dolphin’s blowhole as it breaches next to you.
The view from the greenroom.
A barely heard hoot from the crew you’re leaving behind as you race down the wall of a set wave.
Finish sanding a newly shaped blank.
The smell of poly resin as you open the shed door.
The snapshot recollections of all the best waves you’ve ever caught, that come to you at random moments during the day.
Just doing it.